A Friday on Stanage

With a couple of days holiday left to use I took a Friday off work. It was night to climb at Stanage during the week when there are no crowds. I walked in from Hooks carpark. I was a long walk down to the end of Plantation but it was a good warm up in the chilly wind.

I deferred the first route which was Dry Crack, ironically named it was pretty much a steam pouring down it. So my 100th route was Short Crack – Mod.

This part of Stanage is a broken so there is often a bit of a walk between routes, between this and the chilly wind I did not really get in to a flow climbing. I only did 23 routes today which is good but not as many as I have done.

Think I will walk in from the causeway carpark next time and walk in from there. It is nice to be on the last section of the crag. This is the the longest section but looking at the guide I think I might get this done in 2/3 days.

 



Dry Crack

Stanage Challenge Day 3

This week I found that Saturdays weather was looking good so I headed up to Peak district for a days climbing. Got to the bakery for 9.30am and the ground was a little wet, but after a bacon roll I drove up to Stanage. The walk in today was a bit longer as now as I have completed the popular end.
The first route of the day was Pal Joey (VD), it was nice to get back on the grit. Getting back in the flow I was soon ten routes ticked. In this part of Stanage the routes are harder in grade so there are less Mod to VS’s so made my way down the crag pretty quickly.

Some of the routes were shorter so it was easy to get a lot of them ticked off. It was soon 2.30pm and I was now down to Outlook Buttress. The next route was quite far down so I called it a day at Ladder Cracks (VD). I managed 37 routes which is the most I have done in one day. After 3 days climbing I have ticked 99 routes, it will be good to get in to triple digits.

 


Pal Joey (VD)

 


Ladder Cracks (VD)

Wet weekend in North Wales

Alec, Dan and myself headed up to north Wales for the weekend. It was nice to get away in to the mountains. It was nice to be back, shame the normal campsite was closed so had to head in to Ogwen valley. Weather was windy but got a good nights sleep.

Saturday we headed over to Pen yr Ole Wen and headed up to Pinnacle Ridge, a short V Diff and then moved in to a grade 2 scramble. We then carried on up to Pen yr Ole Wen summit.

The weather started closing in so headed down via Cwm Llola.

Sunday was very wet and windy and there was no motivation to get wet so headed over to Beacon climbing wall. It was nice to climb at a different wall.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR0981.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR0976.

Dan ready to lead with min gear

Passed my SPA

I remember registering for my SPA so many years ago, not thinking how long it would take to achieve. This past weekend I passed my assessment. So pleased that I confidently passed. So with my ML and now SPA what is next. Next will be FUNdamentals course in a couple of weeks time, then I think the next step is CWLA in a couple of months time.

 

 

Bear in the Air

This weekend we a were apart of Bear in the Air. The Quarries was full with 160 cubs and the chief scout decided to drop in.

I know that there are scouting sceptics about Bear, but the short conversation that I had with him is that he is only interested in making scouting special for the young people.

He was not interested in wasting time, he just wanted to spend time with the young people.

SPA training

This weekend I when on my SPA training. On Saturday the weather was pretty wet and windy. We were at Stanage and mainly working on belay setups. It was great to learn the correct way of setting up belays.

Saturday evening was spent in the pub which was nice to chat with John and the other guys.

Sunday we when to Higgor Tor and Burbage North. Again it was more of the same.

Getting the climbing bug back

Over the past week I have found that I am wanting to climb more and more.

I think the tipping point was being able to complete 6a’s at big rock. I completed several 6a and one 6a+ over last time climbing. I now feel a drive to climb more and more. Today I when boldering for the first time and really enjoyed the challenge.

My technique  is getting better , i am starting to flag, twist my body and also use straight arms to rest. Getting excited for Tuesday now as there are several new 6a routes. It is good to have this feeling back.

 

The first trip of the year

We have spend every Thursday studying the weather so far this year with every week looking wet and windy. This week the weather turned and it was dry.

Adam and myself jumping in the car and headed up to the Peak District. A early start ensured that we were on the crag for 9.30am.

We decided to go to burbage north, easy walk in and plenty of easier climbs.

It was still really windy on the top of the crag but it felt good to get out in the outdoors with grit under our fingers.