Stanage Challenge Day 3

This week I found that Saturdays weather was looking good so I headed up to Peak district for a days climbing. Got to the bakery for 9.30am and the ground was a little wet, but after a bacon roll I drove up to Stanage. The walk in today was a bit longer as now as I have completed the popular end.
The first route of the day was Pal Joey (VD), it was nice to get back on the grit. Getting back in the flow I was soon ten routes ticked. In this part of Stanage the routes are harder in grade so there are less Mod to VS’s so made my way down the crag pretty quickly.

Some of the routes were shorter so it was easy to get a lot of them ticked off. It was soon 2.30pm and I was now down to Outlook Buttress. The next route was quite far down so I called it a day at Ladder Cracks (VD). I managed 37 routes which is the most I have done in one day. After 3 days climbing I have ticked 99 routes, it will be good to get in to triple digits.

 


Pal Joey (VD)

 


Ladder Cracks (VD)

The start of My Stanage Challenge

After soloing more that before this summer and really enjoyed the freedom that it gave me. I wanted to set myself a big challenge to work on over several months. So combining the two I have decided to try and solo every route of the grade of VDiff and below.

So I started by marking up my guide book with all the routes, then I found the app was better for marking off lots of routes.

Then this weekend looked perfect to start. I drove up to the peak district on Saturday afternoon to be met by a sunny day. The first route was ‘The End Of All Things’ HVD, the route is a the fading end of Stanage and only a couple of meters high but it felt like the start of something long. Looking down Stanage I wondered how long it would take me. I have decided to do them from Right to Left, just because it would force me to have a go at each climb in order.

I started at 2pm, but by 3.30pm I had ticked 25 routes, which I was really pleased with, I got to Ellis Eliminate area, with the sun setting I called it a day.

Next morning I was up early, it was raining all night so it was pretty wet, but the sun was out and there was a breeze so hopefully it would dry out soon.

I got the crag for 9.30 and found it was still pretty damp and green. The thing with climbing the easier grades is normally they are they are the “gullies” “chimney” of the crag. This means they are normally green and wet. It was interesting climbing all the routes you normally steer clear of.

I kept the pace up and only stopped for a bit of flapjack and water. I promised myself that if I go to the Dover Wall I would call it a day (that is the end of the popular end).

30 routes ticked in I finally moved to Dover Wall only 5 left. The first one I mis read the route so had to repeat it. The last route was Wing Wall, which I shot straight up. There was a couple of guy racking up at the bottom but i wanted to be done for the day as I was shattered.

It was really nice to make my way down the crag getting to know every bit of it. The in’s the out’s and the descents.

I am now looking forward to my next trip to get more ticked off.

 


The End Of All Things HVD


Newhaven Dif

Wild Running

Rebecca bought myself a great wild running book for Christmas. It was nice to see a running book that covered the whole country rather than just the mountain areas. The first route that I ran was around Ivinhoe Beacon. The route was really nice and took in a area that I knew a bit.

The next route was around Wedover woods. It started up the ridgeway and then round to Boddington Hill. It was a crisp day but the sun was out so it was a lovely run.

Both routes were really nice and going to try and run one of these routes every week. I have started planning a route around Cannock Chase in readiness for the summer.

Review of ten things for 2016

My ten things for 2016 are:

  1. Reconnect with old friend that I have not see in over a year. Visited Paul and Kev.
  2. Learn how to ski Learnt in Jan and Feb
  3. Get another qualification – Prince2
  4. Lead more E1’s – Failed this one
  5. Stay in a bothy – Failed this one
  6. Take more photos – Took more but going to change it to videos
  7. Visit family more – Visited Rebecca and Vicky more
  8. Visit 2 new countries – Visited Greece and Austria for the first time
  9. Be more stylish – binned old clothes and now got more stylish outfits
  10. Run 3 times a week – Ran every day in Sept, but need to work out more.

30days of being vegetarian – day 20

So over half way though now and I have found that my mindset has changed. Meat dishes are no longer a option, the half empty cup as become half full. Now looking at a pub menu I see what can have. Yes the options are limited but you know i pick the one i like best.

Set menus yes there is the token vegetarian item to tick the box. I found that Weatherspoon’s has by far the best choices. There are over 15 dishes that i could have, almost spoilt for choice. They also do something that I have not seen anywhere else, they offer vegetarian options for normal dishes.

Cheese and carbs are the norm now and can’t see this changing over the next 10+ days. Think the one thing that I expected was to eat more veg, that is totally not the case. I now eat more carbs and cheese then ever before. As deciding to do this for partial health reasons it is hard to justify eating pasta and rich cheese at every meal.

Think I am going to try and eat some more salads over the next 10 days and see if I can reduce the cheese and carbs.

 

Climbing at Reading

This year I am aiming to climb more at other places that big rock. The routes at big rock are starting to bore me, the routes don’t flow and the grades are over the place.

The weather was due to be really bad so the others sacked off their weekend away, so Alec suggested we try Reading climbing centre. I was in Windsor so that worked for me.

Got to Reading at 11am which was good, when though the normal signup process and checking I know what I am doing. It is so clear that climbing walls really discouraging visitors for other walls. It seems odd that the national governing body awards SPA, CWA and others are transferable from site to site but there is no simian scheme for just wanting to climb.

Once started climbing I found myself very anxious about the first climb. It was quite odd, i think it was a different wall, different holds.

Over the next couple of climbs I settled down and found it easier and became more relaxed. Think this is one thing for me to work on this year.

By the end of the session i was nailing 6a’s and was climbing well.

Wet weekend in North Wales

Alec, Dan and myself headed up to north Wales for the weekend. It was nice to get away in to the mountains. It was nice to be back, shame the normal campsite was closed so had to head in to Ogwen valley. Weather was windy but got a good nights sleep.

Saturday we headed over to Pen yr Ole Wen and headed up to Pinnacle Ridge, a short V Diff and then moved in to a grade 2 scramble. We then carried on up to Pen yr Ole Wen summit.

The weather started closing in so headed down via Cwm Llola.

Sunday was very wet and windy and there was no motivation to get wet so headed over to Beacon climbing wall. It was nice to climb at a different wall.

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Dan ready to lead with min gear