A Friday on Stanage

With a couple of days holiday left to use I took a Friday off work. It was night to climb at Stanage during the week when there are no crowds. I walked in from Hooks carpark. I was a long walk down to the end of Plantation but it was a good warm up in the chilly wind.

I deferred the first route which was Dry Crack, ironically named it was pretty much a steam pouring down it. So my 100th route was Short Crack – Mod.

This part of Stanage is a broken so there is often a bit of a walk between routes, between this and the chilly wind I did not really get in to a flow climbing. I only did 23 routes today which is good but not as many as I have done.

Think I will walk in from the causeway carpark next time and walk in from there. It is nice to be on the last section of the crag. This is the the longest section but looking at the guide I think I might get this done in 2/3 days.

 



Dry Crack

Stanage Challenge Day 3

This week I found that Saturdays weather was looking good so I headed up to Peak district for a days climbing. Got to the bakery for 9.30am and the ground was a little wet, but after a bacon roll I drove up to Stanage. The walk in today was a bit longer as now as I have completed the popular end.
The first route of the day was Pal Joey (VD), it was nice to get back on the grit. Getting back in the flow I was soon ten routes ticked. In this part of Stanage the routes are harder in grade so there are less Mod to VS’s so made my way down the crag pretty quickly.

Some of the routes were shorter so it was easy to get a lot of them ticked off. It was soon 2.30pm and I was now down to Outlook Buttress. The next route was quite far down so I called it a day at Ladder Cracks (VD). I managed 37 routes which is the most I have done in one day. After 3 days climbing I have ticked 99 routes, it will be good to get in to triple digits.

 


Pal Joey (VD)

 


Ladder Cracks (VD)

The start of My Stanage Challenge

After soloing more that before this summer and really enjoyed the freedom that it gave me. I wanted to set myself a big challenge to work on over several months. So combining the two I have decided to try and solo every route of the grade of VDiff and below.

So I started by marking up my guide book with all the routes, then I found the app was better for marking off lots of routes.

Then this weekend looked perfect to start. I drove up to the peak district on Saturday afternoon to be met by a sunny day. The first route was ‘The End Of All Things’ HVD, the route is a the fading end of Stanage and only a couple of meters high but it felt like the start of something long. Looking down Stanage I wondered how long it would take me. I have decided to do them from Right to Left, just because it would force me to have a go at each climb in order.

I started at 2pm, but by 3.30pm I had ticked 25 routes, which I was really pleased with, I got to Ellis Eliminate area, with the sun setting I called it a day.

Next morning I was up early, it was raining all night so it was pretty wet, but the sun was out and there was a breeze so hopefully it would dry out soon.

I got the crag for 9.30 and found it was still pretty damp and green. The thing with climbing the easier grades is normally they are they are the “gullies” “chimney” of the crag. This means they are normally green and wet. It was interesting climbing all the routes you normally steer clear of.

I kept the pace up and only stopped for a bit of flapjack and water. I promised myself that if I go to the Dover Wall I would call it a day (that is the end of the popular end).

30 routes ticked in I finally moved to Dover Wall only 5 left. The first one I mis read the route so had to repeat it. The last route was Wing Wall, which I shot straight up. There was a couple of guy racking up at the bottom but i wanted to be done for the day as I was shattered.

It was really nice to make my way down the crag getting to know every bit of it. The in’s the out’s and the descents.

I am now looking forward to my next trip to get more ticked off.

 


The End Of All Things HVD


Newhaven Dif